Saturday, November 14, 2015


This request came from one of my lovely customers, Benita Button.  She wanted to make this style of dress without the waist band.
Pattern Hack #2


So, what we have here that is different to the last pattern hack is that the tucks are coming from the waistline and not the side seams.  And also, the tuck are stitch down about 2".

Ok, let's get started.

1.  Trace your front piece so that you have both sides of the front.  Like you did with Pattern Hack #1.

2.  Draw in your neckline.  You can use the V neck as a guide or draw your own.  You need to work out how far down the neck you want your Cross Over to be.  If you were happy with Pattern Hack #1......then do the same.
3.  Now cut out your new front and trace another front exactly as the new front ..... this will be your other front piece.
4.  Rule 3 lines - like you did with Pattern Hack #1.  These 3 lines will be draw from the waist to the armhole of the bodice. By doing this you are directing the tucks up to the bustline.

Follow the image below for the measurements.  Then measure up from the waist on each line 2".  This will be the notch for the tuck.
5.  Now you will be doing a procedure called "Slash and Spread".  Exactly the same procedure you did for Pattern Hack #1.  

Start with the bottom line cut from the waist to almost the armhole point.  Tape the bottom part of the bodice and pivot the waistline part of the bodice out 1 1/2".
6.  Do this same procedure with the next 2 tucks.

7.  Once you have done this then fold the tucks out to the side seam and trace with a tracing wheel.  This will form the inside of the tuck.
8.  That's it's.  Your new front should look this the image below.  Make sure you have marked in where you need to sew the tucks and also the CF and grainline.
I hope you have great success with this pattern hack. 

I'd love to see what you've made so pop on over to my FB group - 1PL Sewing and Pattern Studio.

If you don't have the MiSS RUBY TUESDAY pattern yet then I suggest you pop on over to my website and purchase it.  It's a great little dress that will take you from Summer to Winter.

Thanks again Benita for your Pattern Hack suggestion.  If you love what you see please comment below.  Or you can suggest more Pattern Hacks that you'd like to see.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.

With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.


  1. Ann these pattern hacks are so nice! Are there more planned for MRT?

  2. Hi Abigail, Thank you. Yes I have more planned. Do you have a suggestion of what you'd like to see?

  3. I love this so much! I'm buying the pattern for myself for Christmas!

  4. Hi Ann, loooove the lines on the purple one. Is this now catered for in the add ons for top D or is it different? Similar to skirt add on F but stitching down the pleat for 2”?