Sunday, December 13, 2015

How to Sew an Invisible Zip!

Who hates sewing in an invisible zip?

I have to admit I still sometimes do.  After years of sewing I have my days when I just don't want to fiddle with a zip.  But I've devised a way where you can sew in an invisible zip with the least amount of frustration.

This tutorial has been put together with my new pattern - MiSS FOX DRESS.  It has a CB invisible zip.

Here's what you'll need:

  • fabric
  • invisible zip
  • pins
  • thread
  • zipper foot
  • invisible zipper foot
  • regular zipper foot

  • Open and close your invisible zip to make sure it's works well and not faulty.

  • Then press the zip by uncurling the teeth.  Make sure your iron isn't too hot.

  • Overlock/Serge/neaten your seam edges.

  • With the right side of the zipper facing the right size of the fabric, pin the zip 1.5cm/1/2" in from the seam edge.

  • With your regular sewing foot stitch down the length of the zipper tape.  Line up the outside edge of the foot with the teeth of the zip.  This is to secure the zip in place.

  • And finish at the end of the zipper toggle.

  • Now change to your invisible zipper foot and starting from the top sew down the length of the tape as close to the zipper teeth.

  • And finish as close to the zipper end as you can go.  Sew a back stitch to finish.  You have now finished one side of your invisible zip.  Now to the other side.

  • Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the zip isn't twisted and lies flat like the image above.

  • With your regular sewing foot sew down the zipper tape.  Line up the inside of your zipper foot with the teeth of the zip.

  • Finish this row of stitching near the zipper end.

  • Change to your invisible zipper foot and sew the length of the zipper tape as close to the teeth.  Sew and backstitch to finish.

  • Now you have finished sewing in your zip it's time to finish off the seam.

  • Turn the skirt to the wrong side and with your zipper foot sew the CB seam.  Start right next to the zipper end making sure you have the zipper tape pulled out of the way.  

  • Your invisible zip is now complete.

  • Press your zip and your seam and you're done!  You won't be able to see the zip.

I hope this has conquered your fear or has answered your question of sewing in an invisible zip.  Let me know in the comments below what other sewing procedures you have problems with and I'll do my best to find a solution for you.

NEXT UP - How to Sew a Neck Facing to an Invisible Zip.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.


  1. Thanks Ann, this tutorial was super helpful. Invisible zips aren't so scary anymore :)

  2. This is just the best method. It's the one I use just to be sure it goes in well and I get all the checks and patterns to match. great post. :)