Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?  

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in.  eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 -  Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided.  For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front.  Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done.  Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice.  But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au

Shoulder Adjustment

The shoulder adjustment is usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve.  It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won't sit very well.

If you look at the image below you'll see the following:

• the shoulder seam sits to the back
• the shoulder point site more to the front
• and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric in the head at the back

So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.

Ok, so let's get started.

Step 1 - After you've done your fitting and you've worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you'll need to transfer that amount to the pattern - in the image above we'll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1".

Step 2 - Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 3 - Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don't forget to add a 1cm/3/8" seam allowance to the front shoulder line.

Step 4 - Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line - BUT make sure you come down 1cm.  This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.

Step 5 - Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.

Step 6 - Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.

Step 7 - Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 8 - Redraw the sleeve head.

That's it!  You've now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

How to Sew an Invisible Zip!

Who hates sewing in an invisible zip?

I have to admit I still sometimes do.  After years of sewing I have my days when I just don't want to fiddle with a zip.  But I've devised a way where you can sew in an invisible zip with the least amount of frustration.

This tutorial has been put together with my new pattern - MiSS FOX DRESS.  It has a CB invisible zip.

Here's what you'll need:

• fabric
• invisible zip
• pins
• thread
• zipper foot
• invisible zipper foot
• regular zipper foot

• Open and close your invisible zip to make sure it's works well and not faulty.

• Then press the zip by uncurling the teeth.  Make sure your iron isn't too hot.

• Overlock/Serge/neaten your seam edges.

• With the right side of the zipper facing the right size of the fabric, pin the zip 1.5cm/1/2" in from the seam edge.

• With your regular sewing foot stitch down the length of the zipper tape.  Line up the outside edge of the foot with the teeth of the zip.  This is to secure the zip in place.

• And finish at the end of the zipper toggle.

• Now change to your invisible zipper foot and starting from the top sew down the length of the tape as close to the zipper teeth.

• And finish as close to the zipper end as you can go.  Sew a back stitch to finish.  You have now finished one side of your invisible zip.  Now to the other side.

• Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the zip isn't twisted and lies flat like the image above.

• With your regular sewing foot sew down the zipper tape.  Line up the inside of your zipper foot with the teeth of the zip.

• Finish this row of stitching near the zipper end.

• Change to your invisible zipper foot and sew the length of the zipper tape as close to the teeth.  Sew and backstitch to finish.

• Now you have finished sewing in your zip it's time to finish off the seam.

• Turn the skirt to the wrong side and with your zipper foot sew the CB seam.  Start right next to the zipper end making sure you have the zipper tape pulled out of the way.  

• Your invisible zip is now complete.

• Press your zip and your seam and you're done!  You won't be able to see the zip.

I hope this has conquered your fear or has answered your question of sewing in an invisible zip.  Let me know in the comments below what other sewing procedures you have problems with and I'll do my best to find a solution for you.

NEXT UP - How to Sew a Neck Facing to an Invisible Zip.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

Sewing on Binding - Part 4

This next binding I'll be showing you is not a decorative binding, it is more a functional binding.  It's great if you don't want to sew on a bulky facing on your armholes and sleeves.  It's fast and easy and looks really great!

But if you do want it to look decorative just reverse my instructions.  So instead of sewing the binding onto the right side and turning over and finishing off on the wrong side you'd sew the binding onto the wrong side and turn it over and finish off on the right side.  Very versatile!

So let's get started!

Cut your binding on the bias (the same way I demonstrated in Parts 1 & 2)  3.2cm /1 1/4"wide.

Fold bias binding in half and iron. 

Attach your binding to the right side of your garment and sew together .6cm/1/4" stretching the binding ever so slightly.

Now clip into the seam about every cm/1/4" depending on the curve of your seam.  Making sure you don't cut the stitching.

Fold the bias binding over and top stitch on the binding.

Now fold the binding over to the wrong side and stitch down on the edge of the binding.

And that's it, you're done!

Another great way to finish off your armholes, pockets, necklines and even hems.

Next week I'll be showing you how to attach a binding to a scalloped edge!