The shoulder adjustment is usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve. It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won't sit very well.
If you look at the image below you'll see the following:
- the shoulder seam sits to the back
- the shoulder point site more to the front
- and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric in the head at the back
So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.
Step 1 - After you've done your fitting and you've worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you'll need to transfer that amount to the pattern - in the image above we'll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1".
Step 2 - Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".
Step 3 - Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don't forget to add a 1cm/3/8" seam allowance to the front shoulder line.
Step 4 - Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line - BUT make sure you come down 1cm. This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.
Step 5 - Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.
Step 6 - Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.
Step 7 - Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".
Step 8 - Redraw the sleeve head.
That's it! You've now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.
Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au