A Bust Dart Adjustment will need to be done when the bust dart is either too high or too low.
Step 1 - Take a measurement (on your body) from your shoulder line down to your Bust Point (nipple). Transfer that measurement to your pattern and make a mark.
Step 2 - Redraw in your dart by lowering the dart down to your new Bust Point that you just marked. Make sure the bust dart point is in line with the old bust dart point and the dart ends are the same width apart as the old bust dart.
Step 3 - Now measure down 2cm/3/4" below the Bust Point mark and mark the bust point for the waist dart. Redraw in your dart.
Step 4 - Place a piece of paper under the bodice and redraw your new side seam by folding the new dart up and then ruling in a new side seam starting at the side seam/armhole point and finishing at the side seam/waist point.
That's it! You have now and perfectly positioned bust dart.
NOTE: If your bust dart is too low then just do this adjustment in reverse.
Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking to Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au