Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?  

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in.  eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 -  Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided.  For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front.  Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done.  Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice.  But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au