Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Sleeve Width Adjustment

Are your sleeve fitting too tight?

Then you'll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll be showing you how to add extra cm's to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let's get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement.  This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit.  Then you'll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side.  Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 - Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve.   This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 - Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).  
In this case Brookes' arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 - 32.5 = 3.5.  You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm. 

Step 3 - All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4" to give it a better curve (green line).  Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done.  But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl - meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check it fits.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.

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