Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?  

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in.  eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 -  Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided.  For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front.  Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done.  Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice.  But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au

Gaping Neckline Adjustment

A gaping neckline can be a real pain in your finished dress.  So here is how you can fix it:

Before you start sewing your pattern you must do this important step -

MAKE A TOILE/MUSLIN FIRST of the bodice or dress to nut out any fitting problems.  That way there will be no tears at the end and another outfit thrown in the corner because it doesn't fit.

Ok, so you've made your Toile - now is the time to try it on and see what fitting problems you have with your pattern.

The problem I see for this Toile is the gaping front neckline and also the fitting at the bust.  But for this lesson I'll just address the gaping front neckline.

All a gaping neckline means is that the across chest is too big for you.  So the across chest needs to be taken in.

Step 1 

• pin in the excess fabric at the neckline making sure that you continue this down to nothing.  It will end up looking like a dart and it should finish around just above the bust.  If it goes lower than the bust almost to the waist - then your problem is that you have chosen a size too big for you.

Step 2

• Now to transfer that amount of excess to your pattern.
• Measure down to the point where the excess fabric dart finishes.
• Mark that on your pattern and square a line out to finish at the seam.

Step 3

• Now draw a line up to the neckline - say half way between the CF and the shoulder.
• Measure how much needs to be taken out of the pattern and halve it.
• Mark that amount on the pattern to the right of the first line at the neckline and draw a line back down to the first point.

Step 4

• Now fold the dart in and secure with tape.  This is the time now to redraw the neckline if it needs it.
• The same amount of excess needs to also be taken out of the front neck facing.

And that's it ladies - I hope this has helped one aspect of making an outfit fit your properly.  And now you are ready to make a gorgeous new outfit for yourself.