Sway Back Adjustment

The Sway Back issue happens when there is too much excess fabric at the back around the waistline but the front fits ok.  So you need to get rid of the excess out of your pattern so that it sits better at the back.

As I've stated in my other tutorials on Altering your Pattern you must sew up a Toile/Muslin of your pattern first so that you can fix all the fitting problems that are happening so that you don't get discouraged and end up throwing your garment in the corner never to be seen again.  I know I've been there!

This back bodice is too long and too wide but for this tutorial I'll just be showing you how to take the excess out at the lower back  or Sway Back Alteration.

Step 1

• Pin the excess out from the CB to the side seam.  It will end up looking like a dart.
• If you find you need to take the excess out right round to the front then it's not a Sway Back problem it's just a Front and Back Length problem ie. The Front and Back length is too long for your body.

Step 2 

• Transfer that measurement to your pattern.  It should end up looking like a dart.

Step 3

• Fold the dart in and secure with tape.

Step 4

• Draw a line down the back seam.

Step 5

• Cut away the excess and transfer that to the side seam.
• Redraw the back seam line.

Step 6

• Redraw the back dart.
• To do this measure from the top of the dart to the CB seam.
• That measurement should be the same for the centre of dart at the bottom.
• Mark in the centre of the dart and draw the new dart lines in either side.

That's it you are done.  The Sway Back pattern alteration has now been fixed.  

Gaping Neckline Adjustment

A gaping neckline can be a real pain in your finished dress.  So here is how you can fix it:

Before you start sewing your pattern you must do this important step -

MAKE A TOILE/MUSLIN FIRST of the bodice or dress to nut out any fitting problems.  That way there will be no tears at the end and another outfit thrown in the corner because it doesn't fit.

Ok, so you've made your Toile - now is the time to try it on and see what fitting problems you have with your pattern.

The problem I see for this Toile is the gaping front neckline and also the fitting at the bust.  But for this lesson I'll just address the gaping front neckline.

All a gaping neckline means is that the across chest is too big for you.  So the across chest needs to be taken in.

Step 1 

• pin in the excess fabric at the neckline making sure that you continue this down to nothing.  It will end up looking like a dart and it should finish around just above the bust.  If it goes lower than the bust almost to the waist - then your problem is that you have chosen a size too big for you.

Step 2

• Now to transfer that amount of excess to your pattern.
• Measure down to the point where the excess fabric dart finishes.
• Mark that on your pattern and square a line out to finish at the seam.

Step 3

• Now draw a line up to the neckline - say half way between the CF and the shoulder.
• Measure how much needs to be taken out of the pattern and halve it.
• Mark that amount on the pattern to the right of the first line at the neckline and draw a line back down to the first point.

Step 4

• Now fold the dart in and secure with tape.  This is the time now to redraw the neckline if it needs it.
• The same amount of excess needs to also be taken out of the front neck facing.

And that's it ladies - I hope this has helped one aspect of making an outfit fit your properly.  And now you are ready to make a gorgeous new outfit for yourself.