Shoulder Adjustment

The shoulder adjustment is usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve.  It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won't sit very well.

If you look at the image below you'll see the following:

• the shoulder seam sits to the back
• the shoulder point site more to the front
• and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric in the head at the back

So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.

Ok, so let's get started.

Step 1 - After you've done your fitting and you've worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you'll need to transfer that amount to the pattern - in the image above we'll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1".

Step 2 - Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 3 - Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don't forget to add a 1cm/3/8" seam allowance to the front shoulder line.

Step 4 - Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line - BUT make sure you come down 1cm.  This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.

Step 5 - Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.

Step 6 - Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.

Step 7 - Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 8 - Redraw the sleeve head.

That's it!  You've now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

The MISS AUDREY DRESS pattern is ready for Testing!

It's been a long work in progress but I'm so excited to say that my new pattern THE MISS AUDREY DRESS is ready for testing.

You can select from the pleated skirt version.....

Great dress for the Races!

or the gathered skirt version.

I had a lot of people ask me when I was going to sell the pattern to my Audrey Tea Dress and, I suppose, I gave in to popular demand.  So I created THE MISS AUDREY DRESS for you!

It's a beautiful, comfortable and very girlie dress to wear.  You can dress it up for the evening making it out of gorgeous Silk, Satin Silk, even Georgette lined with Silk or a beautiful vintage Lace.  Also, this makes a beautiful dress to wear to lunch dates and also to the office teamed with a beautiful tailored jacket.  The sky is the limit with this beautiful dress.

I created it slightly different to my Audrey Tea Dress to make it easier to fit and make.  It features:

• a panelled front bodice
• A-DD cup sizing - to give you that perfect
• lined or unlined options
• gathered or pleated skirt options
• all-in-one neck and armhole facing
• easy peasy invisible zip instructions
• in-seam pockets
• sizes 6 - 20 (UK/AUS) and 2 - 16 (US)
• intermediate sewing level

Gathered Skirt Version

Pleated Skirt Version

So I'm now wanting testers to do their stuff and make this gorgeous dress come alive!

I'm looking for intermediate sewers who can make a dress with an invisible zip and also have knowledge of lining a garment.  The instructions are very comprehensive with loads of illustrations to follow along.  What you'll get in return for your hard work is:

• a copy of the final pattern
• your photos of your finished dress on my blog to drive more traffic to your site
• to join my affiliate program (which I'm in the process of setting up) to reap the rewards for your efforts
• you'll be featured on my blog as part of the Miss Audrey Dress Blog Tour

Phew!!  So if you are interested in becoming a Tester for me please fill in the form below and I will announce the lucky ladies on Friday, 24th October.

I have 7 sizes so I'm going to pick a minimum of 7 people to test for me but I will go as high as 14 so that will be 2 per size.

Also, I will have a facebook group so we can go over the pattern step by step and help each other with process of bringing the dress to life!  And once I'm ready to launch the pattern I'll be having a Blog Tour to get the pattern out there in the sewing world!

Ok, off you go and enter your details below and I'll let all the lovely talented ladies who will be joining my testing group by email on Friday 24th October.  If you are not chosen please don't despair as I have other patterns just waiting to be tested.

Many thanks lovely ladies!

Tips and Tricks for a Better Sewing Project

Over the coming weeks I'll be adding tips and tricks for you to learn how to sew and finish your project at lot easier and more professionally.

Some of the subjects I'll be dealing with will be:

• how to sew different seams
• how to finish off seams if you don't have an overlocker/serger
• how to tie a foolproof beautiful looking bow
• how sew in zips the easy way
• and many more

Also I'll be adding little sewing tutorials for you to play with and be creative.

So, if you have any sewing problems you'd like me to cover please put them in the comments below and I'll get onto it.