Bust Dart Adjustment

A Bust Dart Adjustment will need to be done when the bust dart is either too high or too low.

Let's get started!

Step 1 -  Take a measurement (on your body) from your shoulder line down to your Bust Point (nipple).  Transfer that measurement to your pattern and make a mark.

Step 2 - Redraw in your dart by lowering the dart down to your new Bust Point that you just marked.  Make sure the bust dart point is in line with the old bust dart point and the dart ends are the same width apart as the old bust dart.

Step 3 - Now measure down 2cm/3/4" below the Bust Point mark and mark the bust point for the waist dart.  Redraw in your dart.

Step 4 - Place a piece of paper under the bodice and redraw your new side seam by folding the new dart up and then ruling in a new side seam starting at the side seam/armhole point and finishing at the side seam/waist point.

That's it!  You have now and perfectly positioned bust dart.

NOTE:  If your bust dart is too low then just do this adjustment in reverse.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking to Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au

Shoulder Adjustment

The shoulder adjustment is usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve.  It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won't sit very well.

If you look at the image below you'll see the following:

• the shoulder seam sits to the back
• the shoulder point site more to the front
• and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric in the head at the back

So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.

Ok, so let's get started.

Step 1 - After you've done your fitting and you've worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you'll need to transfer that amount to the pattern - in the image above we'll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1".

Step 2 - Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 3 - Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don't forget to add a 1cm/3/8" seam allowance to the front shoulder line.

Step 4 - Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line - BUT make sure you come down 1cm.  This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.

Step 5 - Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.

Step 6 - Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.

Step 7 - Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 8 - Redraw the sleeve head.

That's it!  You've now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

Doing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)

What the heck is an FBA,  I hear you say?

Well, today I'm going to teach you what it is and how to do it.

What is an FBA?

FBA - short for Full Bust Adjustment - is an adjustment done to the front bodice pattern so that your bodice will fit around your boobs without pulling, creeping, flattening your boobs when you wear your bodice/dress.  

It's a way of adding cm's/inches to your pattern - just at the front where you need it and not at the back where you don't need it.

And an FBA is done to a big bust.  Most patterns are made for a B-C cup so if you are a D, E, F, G etc. you'll need to do an FBA to your pattern.

How do you do an FBA?

For this tutorial I've chosen my MiSS FOX DRESS pattern.  It has a bodice and skirt and the bodice is made for a C cup.  So if you are over a C cup then you'll need to do an FBA.

Let's get started:

Step 1 - You'll need to take an Upper Bust Measurement (B) and Full Bust Measurement (A).  The UBM will go around you above your bust and up under your armholes.  The FBM - you'll measure around the fullest part of your bust.

Step 2 - Let's say your UBM (B) is 40" and your FBM (A) is 44".  That is a difference of 4".  So, you'll need to add 4" to your front bodice pattern.

Step 3 - Find the size you'll be starting with by using your UBM which is 40".

Step 4 - The above image shows that Size 14/10 has a bust of 40".  So you'll be using Size 14 and not a Size 18.....that is good news!

Step 5 - Trace out your Size 14 pattern and let's begin the FBA.

Step 6 - Rule a line - parallel to the CF (Centre Front) - that goes from the shoulder to the waist through the waist bust dart point.

Step 7 - Rule a line from your first line out to the middle of the bust dart through the side bust dart point.

Step 8 - Now rule a line from the bust dart point up to the armhole nick.

Step 9 - Finally rule a line at a 90 degree angle to the CF, half way between the waist bust dart point and waist line.

Step 10 - Ok, now you've got your lines ruled up you'll now be cutting these lines.  Note:  you won't be needing the line from the shoulder to the bust point.

Step 11 - Place some extra paper under your pattern.  

• Now cut the line from the waist to the bust point and out to the armhole - don't cut right to the end.  Leave about .5cm attached.
• Now cut the line of the bust dart but don't cut right through.  Leave about .5cm attached. 
• Keep the CF stationary and open the waist to armhole line out the measurement you need.  In this case the UBM is 40" and the FBM is 44".  So that's a difference of 4".  As you only need to add the 4" to the front and the pattern piece is half of the whole front you would divide the 4" by 2 which will give you 2".  So you'll need to spread the pattern pieces 2".  That will then open out the side bust dart.

Step 12 - Lastly, cut the line from the CF to the waist bust dart and move it down so that the bottom edges are level.

Step 13 - To Redraw the Darts - at the waist bust dart point find the half way point.  In this case it's 2.5cm/1".  Mark a dot and then draw in the new dart from the waist up to the dart point and then down to the waist.  Sticky tape or glue pattern pieces in place.

Step 14 - To Redraw the Side Bust Dart, you'll need to do a measurement from your shoulder to nipple to find out where you need to start your dart from.  

• So take that measurement and rule a line down from the shoulder to the bust point parallel to the CF.  Mark a dot for the bust point measurement. This dot should be in line with the dot your marked for the waist bust dart.
• Now rule a line out at a 90 degree angle to approx. where the side bust dart point begins and mark a dot.
• Rule a line from the side seam notch of the dart to the dot at the bust and then back out again to other side seam notch of the dart.

Step 15 - All you need to do now is true up the waist and side bust darts.  So, fold the waist dart toward the CF and redraw the waist line with a tracing wheel and fold your side bust dart up and redraw the side seam with a tracing wheel.

Tahah!  You've now done an FBA to your bodice pattern.  Well done!

I hope this has answered all your questions regarding an FBA.  If you enjoyed this tutorial why not pop over to my fb group and get more help to your questions.

Till next time - Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au

Calling for TESTERS for MiSS FOX DRESS!

I have a new pattern - my gorgeous MiSS FOX DRESS.  It's a super beautiful dress and I'm calling for TESTERS!

Here's what this new pattern is about and what I'm wanting from you -

• It's a gorgeous summer dress with a 1/2 circle skirt and a bodice featuring different sleeve and neckline options.
• Made from woven fabrics eg. Cotton, Linen, Rayon, Satin, Silk, Dupion Silk.
• CB Invisible Zip.
• In-Seam Pockets (optional).
• Suitable for Intermediate sewers eg. need to have some knowledge is sewing Invisible Zips.
• Available in Sizes 6 - 20.

So, I'm now wanting testers to do their stuff and make this gorgeous dress come alive!

The instructions are very comprehensive with loads of illustrations to follow along. 

What you'll get in return for your hard work is:

• a copy of the final pattern
• your photos of your finished dress on my blog to drive more traffic to your site

So if you are interested in becoming a Tester for me please fill in the form below and I will announce the lucky ladies on Wednesday, 10th February.

I have 7 sizes and I'll be needing about 2 per size to try different sleeve and neck options.

Also, I will have a facebook group so we can go over the pattern step by step and help each other with process of bringing the dress to life!  

Ok, off you go and enter your details below.  

Many thanks lovely ladies!