1 Puddle Lane

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Sleeve Width Adjustment

Are your sleeve fitting too tight?

Then you'll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll be showing you how to add extra cm's to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let's get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement. This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit. Then you'll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side. Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 - Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve. This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 - Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).

In this case Brookes' arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 - 32.5 = 3.5. You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm.

Step 3 - All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4" to give it a better curve (green line). Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done. But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl - meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check it fits.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au

Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in. eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 - Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided. For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front. Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done. Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice. But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

How to Sew a Neck Facing on an Invisible Zip - MiSS FOX DRESS

I love sewing the back neck facing for an invisible zip. It's so easy and so straight forward AND it looks professional! That's because this is the way it's done in the industry.

Step 1 - Make sure you've installed your invisible zip as shown in my tutorial - HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE ZIP.

Step 2 - Fold the back neck facing to the front making sure it's right side of fabric together.

Step 3 - Pin the edge of the facing to the edge of the CB seam. You'll have the zip sandwiched in between.

Step 4 - With your regular sewing foot sew down the facing edge.

Step 5 - You'll notice that there is more fabric on the back neck than the facing. This is because you are going to fold the CB seam toward yourself and to the left.

Step 6 - Pin the neckline in place.

Step 7 - Sew the neckline edge 6mm/1/4".

Step 8 - Cut off the zipper tape and cut into the corner of the seam.

Step 9 - Turn the bodice to the right side and press.

That's it! You've attached a neck facing on an invisible zip.

NOTE: This process can also be done if you have a skirt that's got a waist facing.

Happy Sewing!

Monday, February 29, 2016

Bust Dart Adjustment

A Bust Dart Adjustment will need to be done when the bust dart is either too high or too low.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - Take a measurement (on your body) from your shoulder line down to your Bust Point (nipple). Transfer that measurement to your pattern and make a mark.

Step 2 - Redraw in your dart by lowering the dart down to your new Bust Point that you just marked. Make sure the bust dart point is in line with the old bust dart point and the dart ends are the same width apart as the old bust dart.

Step 3 - Now measure down 2cm/3/4" below the Bust Point mark and mark the bust point for the waist dart. Redraw in your dart.

Step 4 - Place a piece of paper under the bodice and redraw your new side seam by folding the new dart up and then ruling in a new side seam starting at the side seam/armhole point and finishing at the side seam/waist point.

That's it! You have now and perfectly positioned bust dart.

NOTE: If your bust dart is too low then just do this adjustment in reverse.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking to Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au

Shoulder Adjustment

The shoulder adjustment is usually needs to be done to a bodice or dress with a sleeve. It needs to be done if your shoulders rotate to the front which causes the shoulder seam sit to the back and also the sleeve will have a lot of dragging and it won't sit very well.

If you look at the image below you'll see the following:

the shoulder seam sits to the back
the shoulder point site more to the front
and the sleeve has a bit too much fabric in the head at the back

So, when the Shoulder Adjustment is done the shoulder will sit forward and also the sleeve head notch will sit forward as well.

Ok, so let's get started.

Step 1 - After you've done your fitting and you've worked out how much you want the shoulder to come forward by you'll need to transfer that amount to the pattern - in the image above we'll need to move the shoulder forward by 2.5cm/1".

Step 2 - Measure down from the shoulder line the amount you need to adjust the shoulder line - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 3 - Cut through that line to create two separate pieces. NOTE: Don't forget to add a 1cm/3/8" seam allowance to the front shoulder line.

Step 4 - Add the front piece you cut to the back shoulder line - BUT make sure you come down 1cm. This is to subtract the seam allowance from the back shoulder.
Now, redraw the neckline in.

Step 5 - Draw a line at the head of the sleeve just above the front and back notches.

Step 6 - Cut the line to separate the 2 pieces.

Step 7 - Move the top piece over to the front the amount you adjusted the shoulder - in this case it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 8 - Redraw the sleeve head.

That's it! You've now made a Shoulder Adjustment to your bodice.