Sleeve Width Adjustment

Are your sleeve fitting too tight?

Then you'll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll be showing you how to add extra cm's to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let's get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement.  This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit.  Then you'll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side.  Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 - Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve.   This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 - Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).  

In this case Brookes' arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 - 32.5 = 3.5.  You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm. 

Step 3 - All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4" to give it a better curve (green line).  Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done.  But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl - meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check it fits.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?  

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in.  eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 -  Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided.  For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front.  Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done.  Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice.  But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au