Sleeve Width Adjustment

Are your sleeve fitting too tight?

Then you'll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll be showing you how to add extra cm's to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let's get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement.  This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit.  Then you'll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side.  Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 - Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve.   This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 - Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).  

In this case Brookes' arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 - 32.5 = 3.5.  You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm. 

Step 3 - All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4" to give it a better curve (green line).  Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done.  But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl - meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check it fits.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.   1puddlelane.com.au

How to Sew a Neck Facing on an Invisible Zip - MiSS FOX DRESS

I love sewing the back neck facing for an invisible zip.  It's so easy and so straight forward AND it looks professional!  That's because this is the way it's done in the industry.

 Step 1 - Make sure you've installed your invisible zip as shown in my tutorial - HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE ZIP.

Step 2 - Fold the back neck facing to the front making sure it's right side of fabric together.

Step 3 - Pin the edge of the facing to the edge of the CB seam.  You'll have the zip sandwiched in between.

 Step 4 - With your regular sewing foot sew down the facing edge.

Step 5 - You'll notice that there is more fabric on the back neck than the facing.  This is because you are going to fold the CB seam toward yourself and to the left.

Step 6 - Pin the neckline in place.

Step 7 - Sew the neckline edge 6mm/1/4".

Step 8 - Cut off the zipper tape and cut into the corner of the seam.

Step 9 - Turn the bodice to the right side and press.

That's it!  You've attached a neck facing on an invisible zip.

NOTE:  This process can also be done if you have a skirt that's got a waist facing.


Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create.    1puddlelane.com.au

Sewing on Binding - Part 3

Now that we've sewn on 2 different bias bindings that you use for armholes, necklines and anything that has a curved edge we are now going to do a binding edge that is more just for decorative reasons.  It's a contrast binding around a hem of a dress, top, sleeve, collar etc.  If you missed out on Part 1 and 2 from the last two weeks click here:  Part 1 and Part 2.

This is how I've done the binding edges on my dress hems for  Audrey Lane dresses.  It's quick, easy and finishes the hem off just nicely.

Ok, let's get started!

Cut your binding piece the width of the fabric x 3.2cm/1 1/4" 

DON'T CUT ON THE BIAS THIS TIME.

With the right side of the binding place it onto the wrong side of your garment.  Pin and sew 6mm/1/4" in from the edge.

Turn your garment over to the right side and fold the binding in to meet the edge of the garment.  Iron the binding flat.

Fold over again and pin.  

Make sure you cover up the stitching underneath.

Stitch the binding down on the inside edge.

Here's the finished project......or you can take it one step further...

Make another row of stitching on the outside edge of the binding.  

I always do this with my sewing projects as it gives the binding a crisper finish and looks great!

And that's it EASY, PEASY...... bindings are a great way to introduce contrast and interest to your garment.

Next week we are tackling another type of binding that is great for armholes and necklines!

I have a confession to make.....

I never liked wearing dresses! True!  Well, not that I didn't like wearing dresses it was more that I couldn't find a dress that suited me.  I always wore pants and shorts or jeans!

I've been searching for years to have a nice dress that suited me that I could wear comfortably.  The maxi dresses just didn't do it for me or suit my pear shaped body.  I felt like a tent.  Some dresses I liked in the shops were just too short for me.  I don't like my knees very much so I like my skirts and dresses just below the knee.

I had noticed the 50's style dresses in the shops and online and loved them and wondered how they would look on me.  So I made up the pattern with a pleated skirt as it is more flattering to the body with less bulk and Voila!!!! I'd found my dress and with loads of jumping around with excitement....again I think my children wondered what I was on......I made myself a few gorgeous, comfortable, flattering, feminine dresses.  And now I can't keep from wearing them.

I asked a little business group that I'm in what they thought and with loads of encouragement I decided to make and sell my Blossom Party dresses for ladies.

So if you are looking for a dress or don't think that dresses suit you ..... think again as there is something out there for everyone.  Maybe my Blossom Party dresses are right for you!

I'm so happy with my beautiful new feminine dresses!

Blossom Party Dress - MARKET NIGHT

Do you have a special occasion coming up soon or just want to reward yourself with a pretty new dress?

My gorgeous happy customers wearing their new Blossom Party Dresses

Well, I'm so excited to be having my first Market Night this Wednesday 29th Feb, 8pm Qld time, for my new Blossom Party Dresses.  (Kids clothes Market Night will be following in 2 weeks time)

It's been overwhelming with the response for my new dresses (thank you) and to keep order in my life and to be able to work on my children's range as well I'll only be opening orders for my dresses 1 night per month with 10 custom spots available.  Also, I need to do a bulk order of fabric which will keep your costs and my costs down!

Ok, so here's how the Market Night will work.

• I have an album set up for the night
• proceedings will start at 8pm sharp (Qld time)
• please write SOLD only if you want to make a purchase and only under the photo called "10 custom spots available" - please don't put a SOLD under the photos of the dresses......as you may miss out!!
• then you need to send me your order and postal address and we can go from there
• if you miss out on being one of the lucky 10 to place an order check back with me in a few days as someone may have cancelled
• if the 10 custom spots are taken please still write SOLD as someone may cancel and that way I can contact you
• payment needs to be made within 7 days or your spot will go to the next person wishing to place an order

Now here's the best part:

• if you are one of my VIP customers you will be able to grab a custom spot 1 hour before - 7pm Qld time.
• to become a VIP customer you need to be on my email list.  If you would like to do this just enter your details to the right of this post.

As always, if you have any questions before the night please ask away....I'm here to help.

See you Wednesday night.

HAPPY CUSTOMER INTERVIEW #5 - with Audrey Morrow

Each week I interview and showcase one special little 1 Puddle Lane happy customer.  This week I'm talking with gorgeous little Audrey Morrow.....who is my niece's daughter.

Hello Audrey,  how old are you?  3

Where do you live?  Barkers Road


What do you do during the day?  Play and eat  (I would very much love to do that too!)


What's your favourite food, Audrey?  Fruit and Veg (Mum says:  Ha! I think she is trying to impress you....it's really chocolate ice-cream)


What's your least favourite food?  Broccolini!!

What's your favourite colour?  Pink and Green (Oh! what a lovely colour)


What is your favourite past time?  Drawing and Ballet classes.


Do you have any pets Audrey?  No! we live in an apartment.....but I do have a pretend dog Henry (aka Mum's feather duster - too cute)


Who is your favourite person and why?  Mummy, Daddy and Bernie (little brother) because I love them 


What annoys you?  I get annoyed when Mum doesn't play hide and seek with me!


What is your favourite 1 Puddle Lane outfit and why?  The green and pink dress because they are my favourite colours


And last question Audrey.  What would you like to be when you grow up?  A Princess (so sweet)

Thank you Audrey for letting me interview you and finding out a bit more about you.  I would have to say I really love pink and green too!!!!




Next week I'll be talking with Kyra Croft and you'll never guess what she would like to be when she grows up!

If you would like your daughter to be in a Happy Customer Interview, please email 1puddlelane@gmail.com

NEW FOCUS for 1 Puddle Lane!!

Have you ever felt like you’re at a crossroad and not know which way to go?  Well, I found myself in that position a few weeks ago with 1 Puddle Lane. So after giving it some serious thought I’ve made the decision to move in a more specialised direction.

Have you found it difficult getting the right outfit for your daughter’s special occasions such as her birthday party, her birthday party invites, special church events, a wedding you are going to, family photo shoot, etc, etc?    Well, I’m planning to make it a lot easier for you from now on.  I’ll be creating exquisite little outfits for that special occasion.  Some will feature twirly tulle skirts, some lace and organza and others beautiful cottons with decorative braid. 

This new focus means that you will still get the same high quality finish as in the past, but I will be making it easier for you to be ready for that special occasion in your daughter’s life.  For me, I’m so excited as  I get to play with lots of beautiful fabrics and designs.  And I’ll be doing a lot more of what I love and that’s creating.

You will be able to see some of my new designs this Thursday which will be available to buy from my shop.  Some designs will be ONE OF A KIND and some you will be able to order from.  Then I'll have more designs available each week to purchase.

In the meantime I’ll leave you with a little teaser of what’s to come:

P.S.  I forgot to tell you.  I'll let you in on a little secret.....I'll be doing boys wear in the near future!!!!!