1 Puddle Lane: sewing techniques

Showing posts with label sewing techniques. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Sleeve Width Adjustment

Are your sleeve fitting too tight?

Then you'll need to do a Sleeve Width Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll be showing you how to add extra cm's to your sleeve width without adding extra to the sleeve head.

Ok, let's get started.

First of all you need to take an arm girth measurement. This is around the fullest part of your upper arm near your armpit. Then you'll need to measure the sleeve width minus the seam allowances on each side. Write these 2 measurements down.

Step 1 - Rule a line down the centre of the sleeve. This line should be at right angles to the hem line.

Step 2 - Now pivot the sleeve open at the hem line by the amount your want to increase the width by (red line).

In this case Brookes' arm measurement is 34cm + 2cm easing so that makes it 36cm. The sleeve patten measurement is 32.5cm. So 36 - 32.5 = 3.5. You we spread the sleeve hem by 3.5cm.

Step 3 - All you need to do now is to re-draw your new hem line and also curve the sleeve head up about 6mm/1/4" to give it a better curve (green line). Place some paper under your pattern and tape in place.

Your alteration is done. But please, with any pattern adjustment, make up a Toile (pronounced Twarl - meaning Mock Up or Sample) just to double check it fits.

Happy Sewing!

Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio.
With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design.
Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au

Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment

Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders?

If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Chest & Across Back Adjustment to your pattern.

In this tutorial I'll show you how you can make your bodice pattern fit better at the shoulder line.

Let's get started!

Step 1 - First of all work out how much you want to move your your neckline and shoulders in. eg. the above image needs to move over 2.5cm/1".

Rule a line at right angles to the CF line. (5cm/2" down from the neckline)

Step 2 - Cut the line so that you've go 2 pieces.

Step 3 - Now, move the top pattern piece over to amount you've decided. For this tutorial it's 2.5cm/1".

Step 4 - Re-draw your armhole and CF lines.

Your front pattern has been adjusted now it's time to do the same to the back pattern.

Step 5 - Your back bodice pattern will be adjusted the same as the front. Rule a line at right angles to the CB in the across back region (10cm/4" down from the neckline).

Step 6 - Cut along the line so you have 2 pieces then move your top pattern piece over the same amount as the front.

Step 7 - Redraw your armhole and CB lines.

Your back and front pattern adjustments are now done. Don't forget you need to do the exact same adjustment to your facing patterns.

Now you have a fantastic fitting bodice. But remember, after each pattern adjustment you need to do another Toile (pronounced Twarl-meaning mock up and sample) just to make sure you've got your bodice fitting just the way you want.

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

How to Sew a Neck Facing on an Invisible Zip - MiSS FOX DRESS

I love sewing the back neck facing for an invisible zip. It's so easy and so straight forward AND it looks professional! That's because this is the way it's done in the industry.

Step 1 - Make sure you've installed your invisible zip as shown in my tutorial - HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE ZIP.

Step 2 - Fold the back neck facing to the front making sure it's right side of fabric together.

Step 3 - Pin the edge of the facing to the edge of the CB seam. You'll have the zip sandwiched in between.

Step 4 - With your regular sewing foot sew down the facing edge.

Step 5 - You'll notice that there is more fabric on the back neck than the facing. This is because you are going to fold the CB seam toward yourself and to the left.

Step 6 - Pin the neckline in place.

Step 7 - Sew the neckline edge 6mm/1/4".

Step 8 - Cut off the zipper tape and cut into the corner of the seam.

Step 9 - Turn the bodice to the right side and press.

That's it! You've attached a neck facing on an invisible zip.

NOTE: This process can also be done if you have a skirt that's got a waist facing.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, December 13, 2015

How to Sew an Invisible Zip!

Who hates sewing in an invisible zip?

I have to admit I still sometimes do. After years of sewing I have my days when I just don't want to fiddle with a zip. But I've devised a way where you can sew in an invisible zip with the least amount of frustration.

This tutorial has been put together with my new pattern - MiSS FOX DRESS. It has a CB invisible zip.

Here's what you'll need:

fabric
invisible zip
pins
thread
zipper foot
invisible zipper foot
regular zipper foot

Open and close your invisible zip to make sure it's works well and not faulty.

Then press the zip by uncurling the teeth. Make sure your iron isn't too hot.

Overlock/Serge/neaten your seam edges.

With the right side of the zipper facing the right size of the fabric, pin the zip 1.5cm/1/2" in from the seam edge.

With your regular sewing foot stitch down the length of the zipper tape. Line up the outside edge of the foot with the teeth of the zip. This is to secure the zip in place.

And finish at the end of the zipper toggle.

Now change to your invisible zipper foot and starting from the top sew down the length of the tape as close to the zipper teeth.

And finish as close to the zipper end as you can go. Sew a back stitch to finish. You have now finished one side of your invisible zip. Now to the other side.

Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the zip isn't twisted and lies flat like the image above.

With your regular sewing foot sew down the zipper tape. Line up the inside of your zipper foot with the teeth of the zip.

Finish this row of stitching near the zipper end.

Change to your invisible zipper foot and sew the length of the zipper tape as close to the teeth. Sew and backstitch to finish.

Now you have finished sewing in your zip it's time to finish off the seam.

Turn the skirt to the wrong side and with your zipper foot sew the CB seam. Start right next to the zipper end making sure you have the zipper tape pulled out of the way.

Your invisible zip is now complete.

Press your zip and your seam and you're done! You won't be able to see the zip.

I hope this has conquered your fear or has answered your question of sewing in an invisible zip. Let me know in the comments below what other sewing procedures you have problems with and I'll do my best to find a solution for you.

NEXT UP - How to Sew a Neck Facing to an Invisible Zip.